The OPEN COLLAR VERSION is the final construction option we offer with this pattern and tutorial, and it's one of our favorites.
Begin by pressing the free edge of the collar facing under ⅜".
Sew the collar to the body assembly (only the collar, not the collar facing), matching front edges and center back.
Press seam allowances upward, toward collar.
Unfold the free edge of the collar facing.
Pin the zipper trim to the body assembly, right sides together and matching edges at center, with the zipper trim beginning just below the crease on the free edge of the collar facing and ending at the bottom of the division shirt.
Cut off any excess.
Sew the zipper trim to the body assembly ⅜" from center edges.
Repeat for other side.
Fold the free edge of the collar facing back under (⅜"), then fold the collar facing downward along previously pressed fold line, matching bottom (folded) edge of collar facing with the collar/body seam line.
Slipstitch the collar facing to the collar/body assembly at the previous stitch line.
Press the zipper trim toward center, away from the body assembly.
Remove as much bulk as possible from the innards of the collar assembly: mainly the collar facing and the already-stitched zipper trim.
Repeat for other side.
OPTIONAL: We recommend quickly hand-stitching the front edge and sewn zipper trim together, as the cotton lycra does tend to curl, and the next step requires folding over it and pressing. It doesn't need to be anything fancy or pretty, just enough to keep the edges from curling/rolling/etc. and messing up your zipper trim later! (The zipper trim should have a nice, crisp, flat look, and ironing it over curled cotton lycra will ruin it.)
Fold the zipper trim (the long way) over division shirt front, turning the zipper trim under to the wrong side and leaving a ⅜" band along front center edges.
Press zipper trim along front center.
Repeat for other side.
OPTIONAL: If desired, install a shorter invisible zipper on the lower portion of the division shirt using zipper construction method 2, substituting collar top for the point at which you wish your division shirt to open.
OPTIONAL: Sew the bottommost portion of your division shirt closed along the center front in the same manner as the previous zipper construction methods.
Fold underside of zipper trim under again toward center, in the same manner as double-fold bias tape.
For the PICARD ZIPPER TRIM, the folded edge of the underside of the zipper trim should be flush with the edge of the interfacing.
Slipstitch the folded edge of the zipper trim's underside to the front body.
Slipstitch the top of the zipper trim closed.
Slipstitch the top of the zipper trim closed.
So there you are - a snazzy open collar!
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