April 28, 2015

Tutorial, part 4d - Picard trim

For the Captain Picard-style (partial-length) zipper trim, any of the five zipper trim construction methods will work; the only thing that changes is the bottom. 

Rather than extending the trim all the way down to the bottom of the division shirt, we will instead be making use of the previously clipped front opening. 


First, decide which zipper construction you wish to use (and yes, a shorter zipper with the Picard/partial-length trim is an option, whether it only extends partially to an open collar or closes all the way as a standard garment would).


Clip, pin, and sew your zipper trim to the front body assembly in the same manner as with full-length trim, except, in this case, the zipper trim should overhang the bottom of the clipped triangle by 1" or so. 

Stitch zipper trim to end of triangle, but not past it! 

However, if you do accidentally stitch past it, just extend the clip to the bottommost stitch on both sides.



Press each zipper trim toward center. 

Fold the zipper trim (the long way) over division shirt front, turning the zipper trim under to the wrong side and leaving a ⅜" band along front center edges. 

Press zipper trim along front center.

NOTE: From here forward, the open collar version is pictured; again, the other zipper construction techniques will work with the Picard/partial-length trim as well! 


OPTIONAL: If not using a zipper, you may instead wish to sew the bottommost few inches of your zipper trims together for a "partially unzipped Picard trim" look; it doesn't have to open immediately at the bottom of the trim. It can open wherever you want it to! 


Press the zipper trim and slipstitch the underside in the same manner as full-length trim, but leaving the bottommost length of zipper trim past the clipped triangle free.



Press trims toward center. 

Turn trims underneath clipped triangle. 

Turn the clipped triangle under. 

OPTIONAL: Quickly hand sew the zipper trims and clipped triangle prior to the following step. It'll be easier! 


Using an edging/piping/zipper foot, sew the clipped triangle to the zipper trims as close to the fold line as possible.



OPTIONAL: "Stitch in the ditch" along the bottom of the zipper trim at the clipped triangle's fold line.


For FLY ONESIE, continue to next step. 

For STANDARD ONESIE and HEMMED VERSION, skip to step 6. 

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