Tutorial, part 4a - Collar to Body, Zipper Trim methods 1 and 2

For general wear, we recommend ZIPPER TRIM CONSTRUCTION 1, which is as follows:

First, fold the collar assembly in half so the bottom edges are flush. (For the hero collar, the seam line should be just below the fold line). 

Baste or sew the collar assembly ⅛" or ¼" from the bottom and front edges. 

Press the entire collar assembly.

Sew the collar assembly to the division shirt assembly, matching center backs and front edges. 

For FULL-LENGTH zipper trim, place the long strip of zipper trim (piece I) along center front, right sides together and matching center and bottom edges. 

The zipper trim should overhang the top of the collar assembly by about 1 ½". 

Cut off any excess zipper trim. 

Sew the zipper trim to the body ⅜" from edge. 

Press zipper trim toward center (away from body), including the 1 ½" excess at the top. 

Fold the zipper trim top excess downward over top collar edge (to the wrong side). 

Press top of zipper trim/collar.

OPTIONAL: We recommend quickly hand-stitching the front edge and sewn zipper trim together, as the cotton lycra does tend to curl, and the next step requires folding over it and pressing. It doesn't need to be anything fancy or pretty, just enough to keep the edges from curling/rolling/etc. and messing up your zipper trim later! (The zipper trim should have a nice, crisp, flat look, and ironing it over curled cotton lycra will ruin it.) 

Fold the zipper trim (the long way) over division shirt front, turning the zipper trim under to the wrong side and leaving a ⅜" band along front center edge. 

Press zipper trim along front center.

Repeat for the other side. 

Cut the excess zipper tape off of the top of the invisible zipper and apply liquid fray preventer to the top of the zipper to prevent the zipper tape from unraveling.

Unfold zipper trim and pin invisible zipper on trim so that zipper teeth are just inside the pressed crease (that is, 1" from the open edge of the zipper trim!) and the top of the zipper is about ¼" below the top of the collar.

Sew the invisible zipper to the zipper trim, extending the stitching ONLY 1" onto the collar (leaving the remainder ¾" or so of the zipper hanging free). Reinforce the stitching at the top of the stitch line.

Using your all-purpose foot, sew a horizontal stitch across the zipper tape to further secure it to the collar.

Repeat for the other side.

Using an edging/piping/zipper foot on your sewing machine, pin and sew the remainder of the zipper trim together beneath the zipper at the bottom of the division shirt.

Your zipper trim should now look like this: 

Close the zipper and pin the underside of the zipper trim securely to the front. 

Open the zipper and "stitch in the ditch" through all layers along the division shirt front/zipper trim seam line (⅜" from center), securing both the underside of the zipper trim and the zipper tape. 

NOTE: Take care to not sew onto the zipper tape at the top, where it is left free! You may wish to do two separate "stitch in the ditch" operations: one for the top inch or so with the free zipper tape folded out of the way, and one for the remainder of the zipper trim. 

Close the invisible zipper. 

The inside of your zipper trim should look like this, with the both underside of the zipper trim and the zipper tape secured by the "stitch in the ditch":

OPTIONAL: Angle the underside of the zipper trim downward slightly, so that at its edge it's about ⅛" below the top of the collar, then hand sew it to the collar facing.

Hand sew two hook-and-eye closures to the underside of the zipper trim/collar facing at the top, where the zipper is left hanging free.

Again, this is the method that we recommend for general wear; the zipper is securely and sufficiently hidden, and there is minimal bulk on the underside of the garment along the front center. 

ZIPPER TRIM CONSTRUCTION 2 is identical to the first, except in one regard: rather than simply turning the zipper trim under and securing, it is folded in on itself again (similarly to how double-fold bias tape is attached). 

Zipper trim construction 1 (recommended)

Zipper trim construction 2

Construction 2 was also employed on screen-used garments, and while the zipper trim itself is perhaps more secure and finished-looking on the garment's underside, it also is slightly bulkier, especially around the collar area (since it's now an extra interfaced layer thicker than construction 1). It can also be difficult to accurately secure via pinning and/or basting before the "stitch in the ditch." 

Nevertheless, it's not a bad option; we just generally prefer construction 1 to construction 2.


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