Exceptions and Oddities, part 2

Another atypical, yet occasionally seen and memorable variation of the DS9/NEM division shirt was that with an "unzipped," open collar construction. 

This was first seen on Picard in First Contact, although the construction itself was not as attractive as in later versions; his division shirt looked to simply be constructed normally and worn unzipped. 

He actually had two different ones during the climax of the movie:

First Contact

Construction details were clearly visible in both versions, though - most notably the zipper/zipper tape itself and what appears to be the underside of the zipper trim in the second photo.

Thankfully, the "open collar" variation of the division shirt was upgraded not long after, with construction details sufficiently hidden. 

DS9, 5x15 "By Inferno's Light"

The next time we saw the "open collar" variation was on Worf almost immediately after the DS9/NEM uniforms were introduced into Deep Space Nine, in the mid-season 5 episode "By Inferno's Light." 

Worf's "open collar" variation seemed to be of similar construction to the second version of Picard's First Contact version pictured on the previous page, except only the uppermost portion of his division shirt was worn open, and the zipper only extended up to the point at which it opened and closed with hooks and eyes to obscure the zipper (as with standard garments).

DS9, 5x22 "Children of Time"

The next time we saw it was on the Sisko in Deep Space Nine's late fifth season episode "Children of Time":

The Sisko's, like Picard's, was worn opened well onto the chest, but, like Worf's, had the improved construction of only extending the zipper (if there even was one) up to the point where it opened and closing with hooks and eyes. 

Near the beginning of the following season, many characters wore the "open collar" variants of the division shirts (open to various lengths), in Deep Space Nine's early sixth season episode "Rocks and Shoals."

DS9, 6x2 "Rocks and Shoals"

DS9, 6x2 "Rocks and Shoals"

DS9, 6x11 "Waltz"

The Sisko wore his division shirt open again later that season in the episode "Waltz."

DS9, 6x16 "Change of Heart"

Not long after that, Jadzia did as well:

Perhaps the most useful appearance of the "unzipped" division shirt from an analytical perspective was in Deep Space Nine's late sixth season episode "In the Pale Moonlight," during which the Sisko wore his open variant for most of the episode.

We're not sure if the "open collar variant" he wore in this episode was the same as the one(s) he wore previously or if this was a new one, but either way, it was very apparent that the construction technique had greatly improved since Picard's in First Contact! 

Note the absence of a zipper above the point of opening, and the underside of the zipper trim having been ⅜" (just as it was on the front). A MUCH better look, in our opinion! 

DS9, 6x19 "In the Pale Moonlight"

As you'll see, this construction technique seemed to become the standard for the "open collar variant," and as such, this is the construction open we have included with our pattern and tutorial. 

DS9, 7x8 "The Siege of AR-558"

The following year, this refined version of the "open collar variant" popped up in Deep Space Nine's seventh season episode "The Siege of AR-558." 

More notably, however, was that Picard briefly wore his collar open in TNG's next feature film, Insurrection, and despite his division shirt again only having partial-length trim, it was clearly not recycled from First Contact, as the open collar construction seemed identical to that of the Sisko's (and what had, by this time, apparently become the standard for the open collar version). 

Insurrection

Bashir wore his shirt partially opened during after his session with the Romulan mind probe in the Deep Space Nine's mid-seventh season episode "Inter Arma Enim Silent Leges." Like Worf's from a couple seasons prior, little more than the collar was worn open, but the construction seemed to be the aforementioned standard by this time (albeit with a higher opening).

DS9, 7x16 "Inter Arma Enim Silent Leges"

Worf and Ezri wore theirs partially open in the first few installments of Deep Space Nine's epic 10-part conclusion.

DS9, 7x17 "Penumbra"

DS9, 7x18 "Til Death Do Us Part"

DS9, 7x19 "Strange Bedfellows"

DS9, 7x20 "The Changing Face of Evil"

We saw the "open collar" one last time in the penultimate episode of Deep Space Nine, on the Sisko.

DS9, 7x24 "The Dogs of War"

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NEXT: Exceptions and Oddities, part 3